How to Play Three-Thirteen
How to Play
Three-Thirteen is an 11-round draw-and-discard rummy for 2-8 players using two 52-card decks. Hand size grows by one each round (3 up to 13 cards) and the wild rank follows the hand size (3s wild in round 1, up to Kings wild in round 11). Lowest penalty-point total after all 11 rounds wins.
Three-Thirteen (also spelled 3-13, Three Thirteen, or 'Threes and Thirteens') is an 11-round draw-and-discard rummy game for 2 or more players, played across eleven deals of growing hand size. In round 1 each player receives 3 cards and the 3s are wild; in round 2 it is 4 cards and 4s wild; in round 3 it is 5 cards and 5s wild; and so on up to round 11, where each player gets 13 cards and the Kings are wild. Players draw one card each turn (from stock or discard pile), arrange their hand into sets (three or more of the same rank) and runs (three or more in suited sequence), and the first player to arrange their entire hand into valid melds and discard their last card goes out. Every other player then takes one last turn and counts the card points still in their hand as penalty points (low is good). After all 11 rounds, the player with the lowest cumulative penalty score wins. The evolving hand size and shifting wild rank keep the game tactically fresh, making it one of the most popular American family rummy variants and an excellent next step for players who already know basic Rummy or Gin.
Quick Reference
- 2-8 players; two 52-card decks (104 cards).
- Round N deals (N+2) cards; rank = hand size is wild (3s wild in round 1, up to Kings wild in round 11).
- Stock face-down, one face-up discard.
- Draw one from stock or discard pile.
- Form sets (3+ same rank) and runs (3+ suited sequence); wilds substitute.
- Discard one to end turn; meld all but one to go out.
- Going out = 0 points that round.
- Others count hand: A=1, 2-10=face, J/Q/K=10, wild=15 if unmelded.
- Lowest total after 11 rounds wins.
Players
2 to 8 players. The game scales cleanly because one shuffled set of two combined 52-card decks (104 cards, jokers removed) is enough stock for up to about 6 players; for 7 or 8 players, add a third deck. Deal rotates clockwise each round. Every player plays for themselves; there are no partnerships. A high-card cut decides the first dealer.
Card Deck
Two standard 52-card decks combined (104 cards total), jokers removed in the base game. All four suits [♠][♥][♦][♣] are used identically. Rank order for sequences (runs) from low to high: A, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, J, Q, K. Aces are low only in the base game (they do not wrap from King to Ace in a run). Card values for penalty scoring: Ace = 1 point, pips 2-10 = face value, J/Q/K = 10 points each. The wild card for the current round (for example the 5s in round 3) scores 0 when placed in a meld but may be scored 15 if still in hand when another player goes out (see Scoring).
Objective
Accumulate the lowest total penalty score over 11 rounds. Each round, the goal is to arrange every card in your hand into valid melds so that when another player goes out you have zero leftover cards, or to go out yourself (meld all but one card and discard that last card), scoring 0 for the round.
Setup and Deal
- Choose a starting dealer by high-card cut. Shuffle the two combined decks.
- Round 1: Deal 3 cards to each player; the 3s are wild for this round.
- Round N (2 through 11): Deal (N+2) cards to each player; the rank equal to the deal size is wild. Round 2 = 4 cards, 4s wild; round 3 = 5 cards, 5s wild; ...; round 11 = 13 cards, Kings wild.
- Place the remaining cards face-down as the stock and turn the top card face-up beside it to begin the discard pile.
- The player to the dealer's left takes the first turn; play passes clockwise.
- The deal rotates clockwise each round so every player deals at least once per game.
Gameplay
- On your turn, draw one card: either the top card of the stock (face-down) or the top card of the discard pile (face-up).
- Optionally arrange your hand into sets (three or more cards of the same rank, any suits; duplicate suits allowed because two decks are in play) and runs (three or more cards of the same suit in consecutive rank order, e.g., ).
- Wild cards (the round's wild rank) may substitute for any missing card inside a set or run. There is no limit on how many wilds may appear in a single meld in the base game, though some house rules cap it at one wild per meld.
- Discard one card onto the discard pile to end your turn.
- Going out: On your turn, if you can place every card in hand except one into valid melds, lay your melds face-up in front of you and discard your one remaining card. You have gone out.
- After a player goes out, each other player takes one final turn in clockwise order: draw, attempt to meld as much as possible, then discard. They may not go out themselves on this final turn; the round ends after the last such turn.
- Melds are laid in front of the player; they cannot be laid off onto opponents' melds in the base game (one variation does allow this).
- Count unmelded cards in each losing player's hand for scoring.
Scoring
- The player who went out scores 0 for the round.
- Each other player counts the penalty points of cards still in hand (not placed in a valid meld): Ace = 1, 2-10 = face value, J/Q/K = 10. Wild cards left in hand count as 15 each (some groups use 0; confirm in advance).
- A player whose entire hand is already arranged in valid melds at the moment another player goes out also scores 0, even if they could not yet go out themselves (because they lack the final card to discard).
- Running totals are kept on a score sheet by round.
- After round 11 (13 cards, Kings wild), sum each player's 11 round scores. Lowest total wins. Tie-breaker: the player with more round wins (zero-scores) takes the tie.
Winning
After all 11 rounds are complete, the player with the lowest accumulated score wins the game. A typical winning total for a skilled 4-player session is between 20 and 60 points; losing totals routinely exceed 150.
Common Variations
- Jokers as extra wilds: Add the deck's jokers as permanent wild cards in every round (in addition to the round's rank wild). Jokers count 20-25 penalty points if unmelded.
- Laying off: Allow players to add cards to opponents' existing melds during their turn. Speeds rounds and reduces penalty scores.
- Six-Fourteen: Starts at 6 cards in round 1 and ends at 14 in round 9 (9-round game). Same rules, different arc.
- Three Thirteen with contracts: First meld of each round must match a required pattern (one set plus one run, two runs, three sets, and similar), borrowed from Contract Rummy.
- Double points final round: Penalty points in round 11 (13 cards, Kings wild) are doubled to raise the stakes and encourage aggressive going-out.
- Aces high wrap: Ace may appear high (Q-K-A) as well as low (A-2-3) in runs; expands flexibility.
- Shortened game: Play only rounds 3 through 10 (8 rounds) for faster play.
- Two-deck-plus-Jokers with 7+ players: Add a third deck so the stock never runs dry during the longest rounds.
Tips and Strategy
- Race in early rounds, defend in late rounds. With only 3 or 4 cards each, going out is fast; treat rounds 1 and 2 as a race. With 11+ cards, you will rarely win the round, so focus on reducing deadwood.
- Treat the round's wild like a joker, not a face card. A you pick up in round 3 (5s wild) is more valuable as a wild than as a pip card. Keep wilds until the end of your arranging, then slot them where they fix a stuck meld.
- Count penalty points, not cards. Holding one Queen (10 points) is worse than holding two 3s (6 points). Discard your highest unmelded card first.
- Watch the discard pile. If you pick up a 7 from the discard and the next player also needs 7s, they may take your discard to complete a set. Discard low-value cards that you know no one wants.
- Do not draw from the discard pile without a plan. Taking the top discard signals exactly what you are collecting. Save it for cards you genuinely need now.
- Late in the round, simplify. If you have two wilds and a Queen in a stuck 13-card round, pairing the wilds with two Aces (set of three) and discarding the Queen reduces penalty from 10 to zero.
- Track wild-rank discards. There are 8 wilds in each two-deck round. Seeing 5 of them go by means opponents have 3 or fewer still; your odds of drawing one are slim.
- Call out early if you can go out with a single high card in hand. Waiting for the perfect discard often lets an opponent dump 10-point cards in the extra final turn.
Glossary
- Set: Three or more cards of the same rank, any suits. Example: three 9s from any combination of the two decks.
- Run: Three or more cards of the same suit in consecutive rank order. Example: .
- Wild card: The rank equal to the current round's hand size (round 1 = 3s, round 2 = 4s, ..., round 11 = Kings). Substitutes for any missing card in a meld.
- Meld: Either a set or a run placed face-up on the table as a completed group.
- Deadwood: Cards left in hand that are not part of any meld; these count as penalty points when another player goes out.
- Go out: End the round by laying down every card in hand into melds and discarding one final card.
- Final turn: The single turn each remaining player takes after someone goes out, to meld as much as possible before counting.
- Stock: The face-down pile of undealt cards used for drawing.
- Discard pile: The face-up pile built by players' discards; its top card is eligible to be drawn.
Tips & Strategy
Race to go out in rounds 1 and 2 (3 and 4 cards); defend against deadwood in rounds 9, 10, 11 (11, 12, 13 cards). Treat the round's wild rank as a joker: save them for stuck melds, not natural pairs. Discard your highest unmelded card first to limit downside. Track how many wilds have already gone by; once most are out, shift from going out to dumping face cards.
Three-Thirteen rewards card-counting and discard-reading more than novices expect. Expert players track every card taken from the discard pile to reconstruct opponents' hands, note how many of the round's wilds have been seen, and bias their draws toward the stock when opponents collect heavily from discards. The shifting wild rank also rewards mental agility: a card that was wild last round (a 7 in round 6) becomes an 8 or 9 penalty card in the next, and dumping those 'just-expired' wilds before an opponent goes out is a basic skill.
Trivia & Fun Facts
The name refers to the first and last hand sizes: 3 cards in round 1 and 13 cards in round 11. With the wild rank tracking the hand size exactly (3s wild when 3 cards are dealt, Kings wild when 13 are dealt), the mechanic is self-documenting: if you forget what is wild this round, count the cards in your hand and you have the answer.
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01In Three-Thirteen, which card rank is wild during round five (the round in which each player is dealt 7 cards)?Answer The 7s are wild. The wild rank always equals the hand size, so round 5 deals 7 cards and makes 7s wild; round 1 deals 3 cards and makes 3s wild; round 11 deals 13 cards and makes Kings wild.
History & Culture
Three-Thirteen developed as an American domestic rummy game in the early 20th century, descending from the broader European Rummy family and adopting the shifting-wild mechanic from Contract Rummy. It spread through American army camps and grew to become a standard 'family rummy' across the United States and Canada, where it is usually learned at home rather than from rulebooks.
Three-Thirteen is one of the three or four canonical American family rummies, alongside Gin Rummy, Canasta, and Kings in the Corner. It is particularly common in the American Midwest and South, where it is a standard multi-generational game at holiday tables and cabin weekends. The game's gentle ramp from 3 cards to 13 makes it a reliable teaching game for introducing children to meld-building and deadwood accounting.
Variations & House Rules
Joker wild adds permanent extra wilds. Lay-off rules let you add to opponents' melds. Six-Fourteen shifts the arc. Contract-style first-meld patterns raise difficulty. Double-points final round and Aces-high wraparound adjust risk. Shortened 8-round versions cut play time.
For a family game with young children, skip rounds 10 and 11 (11+ cards become punishing) and play 9 rounds. For a faster adult game, deal only every other round (3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13). For higher strategy, permit lay-offs on opponents' melds. Allow Aces-high wraparound for more run flexibility. Cap wilds-per-meld at one to force natural-card planning.